The rugs we make are built to last. Not a season, not a few years — a lifetime, and then some. The artisans who make them have been doing this for generations. The least we can do is look after them properly.
The good news: it's not complicated. Natural fibres are honest materials. They don't ask for much.
The basics — for every rug, every week
Vacuum gently, and often. Once or twice a week is enough. The important thing: turn off the beater bar. On wool and looped weaves, the rotating brush can snag fibres and pull at the pile over time. Suction only. It takes thirty seconds and it makes a real difference over years of use.
Rotate it. Every few months, turn the rug 180 degrees. Sunlight comes from one direction. Foot traffic follows the same paths. Rotating keeps the fading and wear even across the whole piece — especially in rooms with strong natural light, which most of our customers' homes have plenty of.
Use a rug pad. We say this to everyone. A good pad stops the rug from creeping, cushions the pile from below, reduces wear at the base, and lets air move underneath. It also protects your floor. It's a small cost against a rug that's meant to last decades.
When something spills
Don't panic. And don't rub.
Grab a clean, dry cloth and blot — press firmly to lift the liquid up and out, rather than pushing it deeper into the pile. Work from the outside edge of the spill inward, so you're containing it rather than spreading it.
For anything that doesn't lift with blotting alone, a small amount of cool water and a drop of mild soap is usually all you need. Then blot again. Let it dry fully and naturally — away from radiators, hair dryers, or direct sun. Heat sets stains and can damage fibres.
On wool especially: avoid harsh chemical cleaners. Wool has natural lanolin — the same oil that makes it stain-resistant and resilient in the first place. Strong chemicals strip it out. Cool water and patience will always do less damage than a bottle of something aggressive.
Fibre by fibre
Wool is the most forgiving of the natural fibres. It resists stains naturally, recovers well from compression, and — if you look after it — gets better with age rather than worse. New wool rugs shed lightly at first; this is completely normal. It's loose surface fibre working its way out, and it settles within a few months of regular gentle vacuuming. We recommend a professional clean every one to two years. Not because the rug needs rescuing — just because it deserves it.
Jute and hemp are strong, textural, and beautiful — but they don't like water. Blot spills immediately and thoroughly. Never soak them, never steam-clean them, and don't put them in damp rooms or on wet floors. Their character is worth protecting; their weakness is moisture.
Cotton is the most low-maintenance of the three. Many of our flatweave cotton rugs can be machine washed — always check the care label first, but cotton is generally the easiest to live with. It's also the most forgiving if you forget the rules above.
What's normal — and what isn't a defect
Shedding from a new wool rug is normal. It's not a sign of poor quality — it's the nature of the material. Loose surface fibres come away in the first weeks and months, and then it stops. Keep vacuuming gently and it will settle.
Gentle fading in direct sunlight is also natural. Wool and cotton are dyed with real dyes; they respond to light the way any natural material does. Rotating the rug keeps the fading even, which is all you need to do.
These aren't flaws. They're what it looks like when something is actually made — not manufactured to be identical and disposable, but woven by hand to be lived with.
Storing a rug
If you ever need to store a rug: make sure it's clean and completely dry first. Roll it — never fold it, which creates permanent creases. Roll with the pile facing inward for most rugs, outward for hand-woven flatweaves. Store in a dry, ventilated space. Avoid plastic wrapping, which traps moisture.
Frequently asked questions
How do you get a stain out of a wool rug?
Blot immediately with a dry cloth, working from the outside of the stain inward. If it needs more, use a small amount of cool water and mild soap — blot again, then let it dry naturally. Avoid hot water, scrubbing, and chemical cleaners. Wool responds best to a light touch and a little patience.
Can you vacuum a natural-fibre rug?
Yes — but turn off the beater bar for wool and looped weaves. Suction only. Regular gentle vacuuming is one of the best things you can do for a natural-fibre rug; it removes grit that would otherwise work its way into the pile and wear it from the inside out.
Is shedding from a new rug normal?
Completely. New wool rugs shed lightly as loose surface fibres work their way out. It settles with regular gentle vacuuming over the first few months. It's not a defect — it's what real wool does.
Do natural-fibre rugs need a rug pad?
Yes. A rug pad prevents slipping, protects the pile from below, cushions the rug underfoot, and extends its life significantly. We'd always recommend one — it's a small investment that makes a real difference over years of use.
How often should a wool rug be professionally cleaned?
Every one to two years is a good rule of thumb for a rug in regular use. Day-to-day care — vacuuming, rotating, blotting spills — handles everything else. A professional clean isn't about fixing problems; it's about maintaining something worth maintaining.